Pull to Paint Process


In this 16 minute video, Jonathan Vandenfontyne demonstrates the pull-to-paint process using a KECO K-Bar.  This process prevents damage to the e-coat and protects the OEM corrosion warranty, while preparing for a Bondo and paint finish.

Video Transcript

The first thing you want to do is check out what the damage is like. So you need to check out the dent. See how far the dent reaches. Clean it thoroughly up, as you will see what we're going to do. Check it out, the edges, what does the dent look like, and use a light to check out the dent. We'll see in a minute how to use the light and how it enlightens in the largest damage and gives you a good view of visibility on it.

As you can see here, the edges of this dent are bent as well. You get the same thing. Where it passes the door. Then there's a whole area here, dented in from some of the rails on the highway.

116 Fahrenheit.

We're going to tackle it with those smooth centipedes. We got them bendable. We got them rigid. Let's see what we can do with the K-beam. Try and pull it out.

You need a glue gun that gives enough glue. If you have a gun that pours out a little bit of glue, it slows you down a lot. You need a gun like this. If you pour out glue, that allows you to bring it out, and fill up the centipede with enough glue.

Pick a strong spot for the feet.

So after the first pull, we have this. As you can see, this area is still a little bit too low. But this came all the way out, up until here, and this is something that we need to tackle on and knock down a little bit first. Then this part here needs to come out better, as you can see.

Want to use this hammer first. Do some knocking.

Small HD taps. Very strong. See what we can do with those.

We got those little ones. We're going to try to pull the last little bit. It wasn't easy here.

We have some knocking now, to do. But we got it from a really pushed in, without getting the paint off, or even more off than the accident did, to this 80 percent out.

This is where we're going to stop, at 80 percent, and start sanding.

This is what it looks like after sanding. As you can see there are no marks whatsoever on this one.

Only glue pulling, sanding. This is how we're going to bring it over, or give it to the body man and can start with some Bondo, and prepare it for paint.

So there was no spot-welding on this one. We glue-pulled it all the way. Now we're going to follow the body man and see how he's going to prep it and how the painting is going to be done and how the final painting is going to end, and see what the car looks like when it's all finished.

So there is a great advantage in no spot-welding or welding on the car. Why? Well, the OEM paint on the inside is not bothered, not burned away from the spot-welding. That means the repair is better. The repair overall is always better when there is no welding on the car because the OEM warranty of the factory stays intact.

So overall it's going to be a better repair, even if it has to be painted. You can glue-pull a lot of stuff and bring it back to as original as you can do after a repair.

Showing some of the tools that we used.

The lights. K-bar. K-beam. Knocking down goodies. Ropo. Kind of core lower taps.

Three steps already, of the repair program, are being done. The dent is repaired. Bondo has been sanded and repaired. And now the primer is being done. So the next step is sanding the primer, prepping it for paint, painting the car, and assembly again, do R&I, and then return the car to the customer. Let's see what happens further on.

So all done. The car is painted, ready to assemble again. Let's see what the finished product looks like, and what the result is after the work we've done.

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