Our process will help you get the most out of your dent repair tools.
The glue pull repair process will significantly reduce the need for stud welding in your body shop. If you're a PDR tech, beginning your repairs with glue pull will significantly increase the speed at which you can turn jobs around and increase the quality of the end result. In either case, the efficiency gains and quality improvements made by implementing just a basic understanding of GPR techniques will undoubtedly put more money in your pocket.
Our 6-steps will maximize the results you achieve within your glue pulling service. The process is application-based and focuses on controlling your environment. There's no magic to GPR - just a simple understanding of the aspects that optimize adhesion and a few simple guidelines for selecting the proper tools for each job.
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Is my working surface clean?
Thoroughly clean your panel with 99% isopropyl alcohol or as close as you can get to that concentration level. Keystone Cleaning Release Solution
(CRS). If a wax stripper or degreaser is required, use the CRS again after degreasing and polishing. Remember to clean tabs with CRS.
Temperature. Temperature. Temperature.
Did you check the temperature? Are you using a heat gun to improve adhesion?
Your panel temperature, panel material, and glue temperature are VITAL to the success of your GPR repair efforts. These aspects are critical for maximizing tab adhesion.
Material — Steel, HSS, or Aluminum
Panel Temperature — 75℉ - 90℉ is Optimal
Glue Temperature — High, Smoking Hot, and Runny
What glue should I use?
There are only 3 primary glues to consider for 99% of repairs.
Green - All Purpose
This glue is great for most applications. It’s rigid enough to use for quick, snappy hail damage but flexible enough to handle multi-action pulls on larger, more complex repairs.
Set Up Time
Small Tabs = 20 – 30 sec
Large Tabs = 2 – 4 min
Grey - Fast, Small, and Simple Dents
This glue is ideal for smaller dents. It’s less flexible than both the GREEN and CAM AUTO glues and requires less time to set up. This allows you to move quicker with more short pulls.
Set Up Time
Small Tabs = 15 – 25 sec
Large Tabs = 1 – 3 min
Cam Auto - Slow, Large, Complex Dents
This glue is ideal for larger more complex dents. It’s flexibility and increased setup time equates to a longer working time so you can utilize multiple actions to knockdown while pulling.
Set Up Time
Medium Tabs = 2 – 3 min
Large Tabs = 6 – 7 min
Remember to use a QUALITY glue gun: Your glue must be smoking hot and runny to maximize your adhesion success. We offer a variety of glue guns that all meet the requirement for GPR repairs. Shop glue guns >>
What tabs do I need?
Tabs must be SMALLER than the highs of the dent. Select a tab shaped like your dent or body line and place it within the lowest lows of the dent.
- Rigid Tabs = Shallow Dents
- Flexible Tabs = Deep Dents
See our full tab assortment >>
What pulling tool do I need?
K-Beams = Our bridge pullers provide the most precise pulls on medium to large dents. Techs can place the beams feet on a strong area of the panel and utilize the sustained nature of the tool to keep the pressure on one area while they knockdown around the adhered tab.
X-Large // Standard // Junior
K-Bar = Great for extreme edges on medium to large dents - setup on this tool is quick and your pulls are only limited by the strength of the tech using it.
X-Large // Standard
Robo Lifter = Hail, small dings, or medium crease dents - provide techs with the ability to massage the metal rather than jerking or pulling it up.
Precision Robo Lifter = Specially designed plate holds down the metal around the dent for a super precise pull - preventing volcanoes and limiting the amount of knockdown work required after the pull.
Crease Killer = Pull deep creases out with ease. But, be careful. This tool is so powerful that you can easily overpull your dent and cause more work for yourself.
Slide Hammer = Fast pulls for a wide range of dents - provides minimal control
What knockdown tool do I need?
Shop Our Full Assortment of Knockdowns >>
Red Slapper = huge crowns
- Use in combination with a body hammer
= straightening edges
JVF Hammers = medium to large crowns
Black Swan = medium to small crowns
4mm Metal Knockdown = small, sharp crowns
How do I apply the glue and tabs?
Don't forget! You MUST clean your tabs before coating the surface with glue. This is critical in achieving maximum adhesion. Use a CRS solution to make sure you are cleaning your tabs correctly.
Use a high-quality glue gun and make sure your glue is smoking hot! It should be completely runny and REALLY HOT when it comes out of the gun.
See our assortment of glue guns >>
- Fill surface of the glue tab
- Place lightly on the panel
- Wait for the glue to solidify
- Time may vary depending on the type of tab and the ambient temperature of your environment
About Our Glue
Don't let the insane amount of glue options intimidate you. You only need to worry about 3 of them for 99% of repairs.
Our Cactus Green glue covers nearly all applications and you should only worry about utilizing our Tab Weld Grey glue or the Cam Auto glue in extreme circumstances.
At one extreme there are small, simple dents that you intend to work quickly with single action pulls. At the other extreme, you have large, complex dents that you intend to work slowly and with multi-action techniques.
Most glue pulling dent repair jobs can be adequately completed utilizing our Green glue. It's designed to set up nicely with a reasonable amount of flexibility and without sacrificing too much rigidity. This enables use in a broad range of temperature applications and types of dents.
Extremely simple and small dents that are handled with fast, snappy pulls are best completed using Grey glue.
Extremely large and complex dents that are handled with multi-action techniques are best completed using Cam Auto glue.
What do I pull? What do I knockdown?
Use the same process you would if you were stud welding. Lift the lows. Knock down the highs. But, glue pull repair techniques make this even easier with the added surface area of a glue tab when compared to a welded nail/stud.
REMEMBER: You DO NOT need to grind away paint or damage the door any more than it already is. This is one of the primary advantages of glue pull repair over stud welding. Protect as much of the OEM paint as possible and do absolutely ZERO damage to the e-coat.
Just PULL. After the dent has been pulled you can simply knock down the highs. If you're using a beam or other sustained pulling tool, you can keep that pulling pressure on the dent while you knockdown at the same time around the dent.
Increase the quality of your repairs, decrease the amount of body filler needed, protect the e-coat, retain more of the OEM paint job, and STOP STUD WELDING!
Sanding, Filling, and Painting!
Skim it, sand it smooth, primer it, paint it! That's it. Steps 1-5 provide you with everything you need to achieve a higher-quality repair than ever before and now you can finish the job however you see fit.
Get Started with a one-on-one call, schedule training, or simply ask us a question.