Crease Killer Precision Lifter
Summary
In this 20 minute video, Jonathan Vandenfontyne demonstrates the strength of the KECO Crease Killer Precision Lifter, and pairs it with our 7mm Dead Center Centipede crease tab to easily pull up deep creases.
Video Transcript
Today we would like to introduce you to our new grease killer lifter. What is this lifter? As you can see, it's two Robos - two new feet - two new adapters and it's a crease killer. The lifters designed to work with our centipedes or the new dead center 7mm faced centipedes. why did we do this? what's the benefit of working with this new lifter? Well, follow along and we'll explain why this lifter is almost revolutionary.
This lifter can pull metal while in the past we could only do that with push tools or with stud welding. So let's have a look at the damage the damage we've created here to see how this grease killer machine works, but of course, never forget your steps the six C's of glue pulling: first clean, check, choose the right tools that you are going to use, choose the right tabs you're going to use, the lifter that you're going to use coated with the right glue. Correct the damage; knock it down, pull it up, whatever you need to do. Then continue by repairing it or in PDR or if there's paint damage, continue to prime it. So let's try it and see what it will bring us. I'll show you the damage in a close-up before we start, during the point, and afterward. Start by cleaning it first. We’re going to use our seven millimeter Dead Center Centipede. Of course, one very important thing is to put it exactly in the center, just like the name. If you're not dead center you will destroy this dent. So let's choose our tool, the crease killer. I've mounted the feet so you can mount them in both ways: the feet further apart or closer together. For now, I've chosen them to be as close as possible to the centipede to make sure we remove that crease as high as possible, but you can move the feet the other way around so that bigger centipedes will be able to fit in between. So just make sure you can slide it over, then lower down those adapters to fit right over that centipede. Then lift it, this should normally be enough to lift that whole dent. Use some alcohol and the glue will peel right off. So let me show you with the light, again we’ve just done one centipede along the center of the dent, and you can see that all we need to do is put two small tabs on either end because the crease was longer than the centipede itself.
So maybe I should demonstrate the rest of the repair properly and show you the result. So all I need to do now is knock down that damage a little bit. We've done it in just five minutes we’ve brought up that crease. Now I'm knocking it down. I’m gonna show you the difference in repair and finishing, but let’s do another pull and see how high we can really lift it with that thin of a centipede. Like I told you if you switch the feet around you have more room in between the legs to adapt for the other centipedes. So if your glue is warm enough just slide the lifter over, If you just squeeze the feet by turning them you can adjust to any centipede. Make sure the feet are as close as you want them to be. You have to have them push down the crown, and the high spot so that you’ll lift only the center. Make sure that you’re even with the adaptors from every side of the centipede. It is best for a double action to pull to be as close as possible to the centipede. If you’re maxed out turn the Robos up to make sure you have all the stroke you need. I think I’m destroying this door, but I’m doing it to show you, I'm not the hulk, but I’m not a weak guy either, and I can't rip it off. As you can see I totally destroyed this door by pulling up a ridge that is almost a body line. there is no reason whatsoever to do that but it is just to show you how strong this type of cooling really is. let's do it again with the 7mm let's do the same pull, I'm gonna rip it off as well, follow along so I can convince you of this double action dead center centipede pulls.
Again, use the light to put the centipede exactly where it needs to be: Dead Center in the crease. As you can see now both the feet are narrow in the closest position possible. Let's adjust the Robos so we are now as close as possible to the dead center centipede that is only seven millimeters wide and the length of another centipede. Let's see how it moves, now I'm gonna rip it off but it's an overkill we should repair it properly like I did the first time but we need to show you how strong this type of pull is. So I massage it up. If you're maxed out turn it and make sure the adapters have some tension on the centipede again. Luckily this door is for the bin. So check it out, this is totally overkill. We created another body lying in this door so this was the one before we stopped in time, this was the one with the bigger centipede, and this is with the one the dead center centipede seven millimeters only. If you are not careful with these new type of centipedes and lifters you will destroy your door or the stuff on the car you’re working on. But to recreate creases to get a crease out of metal, to pull on to a body line ripping that line back in there it is an unbelievable advantage. So what we did here is we smashed away the body line hitting it hard. The body line is gone, every day dent, then it takes a lot of time to push it out. In a lot of occasions, it's double underneath so you can't reach it. Body shops are spot welding these spots all the time let's check out what we can do with our crease killer. We might even need to call it a body line recreated because what we are doing today with that lifter is something that was only possible with push tools or with spot welding, but as you can see today what we are doing here in metal it's unbelievable the force that this thing has. Let's see with the bendable Centipede what we can do on top of the line. I'm gluing it on the line now, and we'll see how it behaves and if we can recreate that body line with one pull. Let's see if we can do it, or maybe with a bendable centipede lift out the damage first and then use the other, that dead Center centipede. Maybe it's a two-stage pool but let's see what we can do. This time I want to move the center first and let's see if we can bring it up. Put the feet the closest they can be, Now if you would want to finish this as a GPR glue pool repair glue pull to paint you could now skim it, sand it, but a PDR tech would not be happy with it because he wants to repair it 100%. Just doing a test here because I smashed this line. Let's do an extra pull here to just bring up that line a little bit more because we have some detail left here that is not really up.
So if you've done the first pull we're literally two or three pulls into the repair in just like 10 minutes. Let's do another pull with our dead center 7mm centipede, and this is on the contrary with other other pulls that we do. This needs to be exactly on the line, and the reason is clear: we want to pull up the line and nothing else because these are line creators. So you want to make sure that you put it dead center to where you want to be because if you're gonna be half an inch off, you're going to create a line next to the body line that already exists. So beware because this is very strong; let's see how this one performs and lets pull that line up a little bit more. I didn't turn the feet around this time but we're gonna solve it by just turning them. I make it as close as possible. Adjust them, pull them up as high as we can. Let's pull it up and see what we’ve got on our body line or on top of our body line. It even stays, keeps its ground, I don't know if I need to convince you anymore, but this is crazy strong.
So after this testing after the demoing of our dead center seven millimeter centipede you will have two examples into the set you'll have this one in the ice material you have the exact same one in blue material, then you’ll have our other range of centipedes; the twelve and a half millimeter ice, the blue one, and then also the two flexible ones as we showed before that if it's a deeper crease, you can pull it up first with a bendable one and then finish it off with the dead center centipede. I’m happy to say it, but be careful what you do because you're gonna destroy a door today. We arrived happy to say at a level that we can overstretch and kill the door or any panel with glue pulling because the point that we are trying to make today with this type of lifters is pulling that is comparable to stop welding. We are ripping paint apart if you’re not careful. So be careful, go easy. Use glue pulling today with these strong lifters as you would use a push tool. Don't rip it off, go easy, lift it and take it off with alcohol. Check it re-glue it, do it in two or three times even to make sure that you don't over pull it. Because if you over pull it you're gonna give yourself a knock-down session and it's gonna be a good one today with all the pulling that we're doing. So, thanks everyone for watching. To follow our tutorial on our new crease killer lifter, find out soon enough what these new tabs can do. Happy pulling! Be careful or you might destroy the metal that you're working on, and for any questions; if you want to see the new system if you want to see the whole kit that we will have available soon on our website kecotabs.com.
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